Beginners Guide To Horses

Riding horses can be a relaxing and fun activity for children as well as adults.  But horses are also very large, very powerful animals who startle quite easily.  Before going riding, you should know how to behave around horses and ponies.  First of all, horses can’t see very well.  They do not have very good peripheral vision and can be surprised if someone approaches them from behind.  Because of this, it is important to always approach horses with caution.  Start by approaching from the front where they can easily see you and then move along to their side.

One good reason for not approaching a horse from behind is because the horse might kick you.  A kick from a horse is very powerful and could break bones or even kill you.  Kicking at something from behind that a horse cannot see is a protective reflex.  They kick first and ask questions later.

You should also remember to use slow calm movements around horses.  Startling a horse could cause them to break free from where they are tied destroying riding equipment and anything else in their path.

When you are working around  a horse, keep an eye on his hooves at all times and make sure you are always wearing boots.  Tennis shoes or open toed shoes will not protect you from a thousand pound animal stepping on your foot!

You should always face the horse rather than standing with your back to him.  Some horses do bite, which can be very painful and can even break the skin.   Take extra care when bending over to pick up a horse’s feet to clean them.  Be on guard at all times.  You never know when something might happen.   A horse could easily kick you while you are bent over with your head close to his hooves.  It couldn’t hurt to wear a helmet while you are cleaning a horses feet.

If you decide that you want to feed a horse by hand, you need to be very careful.  Watch where the horses teeth are.  A very experienced horse friend of mine was hand feeding her horse hay once and her horses accidentally bit her fingers.  The bite went clear down to the bone and left the flesh hanging from the bone.  The horse certainly didn’t mean to bite her fingers, but she was talking and not watching and he just chomped down on what he thought was food.  This is why some people choose not to hand feed horses and will put treats in their feed bucket instead.  If you do decide to hand feed, don’t cup your hand.  Hold it flat with your fingers together and your thumb flat against your hand.  Then you can place the treat on your hand and feed it to the horse.

Lastly, whips are not meant to strike a horse or for punishment purposes.  They are meant to tap or signal that to your horse that is time do something, like transition from a trot to canter.

Starter Saddle Package Set

When you are first learning to ride, you probably don’t want to spend a lot of money on saddles and other tack.  The good news is that you can purchase cheap saddles that are sold in packages or sets.  For English riding disciplines, you can typically find four different kinds.  All purpose, close contact, saddleseat and dressage.

The all purpose saddle was designed to allow riders to use one saddle over fences (jumping) and on the flat (walk, trot and canter or equitation) as is the case with riders who do eventing. This kind of saddle has a deep seat with a long, but slightly forward knee flap. The knee flaps usually have some padding under the leg, to provide support over fences. This type of saddle is meant to be a compromise between a dressage saddle and a close contact saddle.

The jumping saddle, typically known as a close contact saddle, is used for hunt seat, jumping,  equitation and foxhunting.  He has a forward-cut knee flap that allows the rider to use a shorter length stirrup.  The knee flap typically has padded knee rolls to provide support while jumping.

Dressage saddles have a very straight knee flap that accommodates the longer leg position of a dressage rider who does not jump. The seat is deeper than that of a jumping saddle, which allows the rider to relax to best influence the horse.  There usually isn’t much stuffing in the panels, so the rider can maintain a closer feel with her horses.

The Saddle seat saddle is typically used on the gaited and high-action breeds of horses including  the Tennessee Walking Horse Missouri Foxtrotter and Saddlebred,.

The seat of this saddle is long and places the balance of the rider farther back. Riders use very long stirrups like the dressage rider, but the seat places the rider’s center of gravity further back than in other types of disciplines, but still  balanced under the horse.

English starter saddle packages can include a saddle, saddle pad, girth, stirrup leathers, stirrup irons, bridle, reins and a bit, but this can vary.  A saddle set may only include a saddle and girth.  So, be sure and read the fine print to see what is included in the set.  If all of the pieces are not there, you will have to purchase some pieces separately.

I have seen complete sets for around $200 – $350, but they can be higher depending on the quality of the leather.  Wintec also makes nice synthetic saddles, but they are not sold in sets and they can be a bit pricier.  One thing that is nice about the Wintec saddles, is that they offer an easy change gullet system, so the saddle adjusts to fit different sized horses.  Colligiate also makes saddles with this design.  This is nice if you have a horse that is still growing or one that is gaining weight, or if you need to use a saddle on different horses.  Keep in mind that the adjustment isn’t really meant to be changed frequently, so if you are going to be adjusting it several times a week, then this system isn’t practical.

If you are going to buy inexpensive starter saddle sets, check to make sure the construction is sound.  You don’t want compromise safety for a low price.

Equine Vaccines

Many new horse owners are completely unaware that horses need to be vaccinated regularly.  Typically vaccinations take place once in the Spring and again in the Fall.

However, since a horse is so large, providing these animals with preventative health care can be even more important than it is for household pets.
If a dog or cat is sick, you can easily keep an eye on them from the comfort of your own home.  When a horse gets sick, you may end up sleeping in a pile of hay.

Fortunately, there are plenty of preventive measures that can help you keep your horse in good health.  Regular health exams and blood work by an equine veterinarian can help you identify changes in your horse’s physical appearance and blood work during future examinations that may be due to illness or disease.

Immunizations are important as well.  Your horse should receive a flu vaccine.  Usually this is done twice a year.  If your horse competes and is exposed to many other horses, your veterinarian may recommend four times a year.

Encephalomyelitis is a deadly virus that can be avoided through annual vaccinations.  This particular virus is spread through mosquitoes, so even horses who don’t compete should receive this vaccination.

West Nile virus is another virus spread by mosquitoes.  Since West Nile Virus can be deadly, vaccination is very important.

Another essential vaccination for horses is a tetanus vaccine.  Although people only receive this vaccination once every ten years, horses usually are vaccinated once per year.
Although some infected horses recover from a case of tetanus with medical care, the majority of these animals die a painful death. Fortunately, the vaccine can help you prevent this deadly disease from ever occurring.

Deworming is another important part of normal health care.  If you think about it, horses graze on land where other animals have been susceptible to worms.  While you may think that worms are not that big a deal, they can actually be deadly if left untreated.  Your veterinarian can suggest appropriate wormers and a schedule.  Typically this is something you administer yourself every few months.  There are different types of worms, so you need a regimen that protects against the various types.  Be sure to follow your veterinarians directions carefully, otherwise your horse might build up an immunity if the products aren’t administered or rotated properly.

Colic is the number one killer of domesticated horses, so you should understand the symptoms and know what to do if you horse has it.  There are a number of different causes of colic, some of which require surgery. Colic surgery is usually an expensive procedure as it is a major surgery.  Since Colic can occur so frequently with horse, you may want to get insurance to cover major medical expenses.  A few hundreds dollars a year can save you thousands of dollars in surgery costs.  Colic is usually caused by a build up of gas in the horse’s digestive system.  Sometimes blockages or severe cases of worms can also cause colic.  Typical symptoms include biting or kicking at stomach, pawing, pacing, lying down and sweating.  If your horse is experiencing some or all of these symptoms, consult your veterinarian as soon as possible and take away all food.  You should walk the horse until your veterinarian arrives.

Keep in mind that the vaccinations and dewormers needed for your horse will depend on a number of factors including where you live, whether the horse is competed, the age and health of the horse etc.  Your veterinarian is the best source for determining what your horse needs.

If you read the many articles out there about what to feed a horse, they can seem quite complicated.  I have tried to put together a simple list of what you will need:

A horse will need grass, timothy hay or a combination of the two.  If you horse is underweight, you can add one or two flakes of alfalfa.

Horses will need about two pounds of hay for every 100 pounds of body weight.  They will need more, if they are young or very active.  If you don’t know your horse’s weight, you can buy a measuring tape from a tack store to measure their girth.  These are special tapes that tell you the weight of the horse.

Horses are grazing animals and are meant to eat throughout the day.  It isn’t good for them to have large meals, so they should always have access to grass or hay.

You can supplement your feeding program with a grain, sweet feed or pellet if your horse has special nutritional needs.  Your local feed store or veterinarian can help you choose one.  If your horse doesn’t need grain, but is in a barn where all of the other horses are feed grain, it is good to at least give him handful or cup at feeding time, so

Feed Scoop

he doesn’t feel left out.  Sometimes you will need to feed grain in order to administer supplements or medicines.

Horses should have unlimited amounts of clean drinking water at all time.  Buckets or automatic waterers can be used in stalls and troughs are typically used in paddocks or fields.

Salt blocks should also be made available in stalls or in covered areas outside.

This is a basic guideline for feeding horses.  If you horse grows too fat, you may want to limit how much grass and hay they have available.  If they are too thin, consider adding alfalfa.  As seasons change, so can your horse’s weight.  Keep an eye on him and adjust rations as needed to keep his weight at an optimum level.

Housing for an animal as big as a horse is a much bigger concern than getting a new cat or dog.

We all wish we had a lovely sparking clean stable with big stalls, a wash stall with heated water, feed room and tack room.  The reality is many people who keep their horses on their property use a converted shed or other similar type of building.

Regardless of where you decide to keep your horse, you will need a place that provides protection from bad weather.

While it is okay to turn your horse out to pasture 24 X 7, there are going to be times when you need a stall area.  For example, if your horse is sick or injured.  My horse cut the bottom of his foot once and I had to keep it wrapped and keep him in a stall for 3 months while it healed.  It would have been a problem, if I didn’t have a stall available.

If you do use a converted shed or building in your back yard, you need to have it compartmentalized, so the stall area for the horse is separate from the feed area and the area where you keep your tack and grooming equipment.

You will also need a fenced in area.  Don’t use barbed wire fencing.  They can do a lot of damage if a horse gets tangled up in it.  A post and rail fence or woven wire fencing are better choices.  It should be tall enough, so your horse cannot jump over it and shouldn’t fall down if your horse leans up against it.

If you are going to keep a horse at home, he should have a companion.  Horses are herd animals and can become extremely unhappy and depressed if kept alone.  If you don’t want to get a second horse, consider a goat, pony or miniature horse to keep your horse company.

If you don’t have room to keep a horse at home, you can always keep them at a boarding stable or even on a friend’s property.  There are many different living situations to choose from.  You could keep your horse in a co-op situation and share in the chores with the others in the barn.  This is certainly cheaper, or you can opt for a boarding situation that offers full care.

In each boarding situation, you need to find out up front what is included such as food, blanketing, fly mask, fly spray feeding supplements and medication.  Is there a riding ring or does the facility have access to trails?  If you plan to jump, are there jumps available?  If you have a horse trailer, can you leave it on the property when you are not using it?

As you can see, housing is a big concern when you own a horse and you should do your research, so you know what all of your options are.

Hard & Soft Brushes, Hoof Pick & Metal Curry Comb

Okay, so you have decided to buy a horse and you are ready to buy horse grooming supplies. Where do you start? What sort of horse grooming tools are required?

A hoof pick is a must for every horse owner. There are different types, some more expensive than others. Personally I like the ones that have a brush on them. You might also like one that folds up to carry with you when you are riding. You never know when your horse might pick up a stone or other foreign object in his hoof that will require removal.

The next must have is a rubber curry comb.  Some people use metal curry combs, but I prefer a rubber one.  This is used to remove loose hair and mud from the horse’s body.  You should not use it on any delicate areas though, like the face or legs.

Rubber Curry Comb

After using a rubber curry comb, I use a stiff brush to remove loose hair and dirt.  Care should be used when using a stiff brush, especially on horses that are ultra sensitive.  If the horse seems agitated, you are probably hurting him.

After the stiff brush, I use a medium brush and then finish with a soft brush.  Only use the soft brush on the horse’s face.

You can use a mane and tail comb, but I prefer using a stiff brush and then a follow up with a human hair brush.  I like the paddle style with the metal pins in them.  They make these for horses too, but I like the human hair brushes better, because they last longer and don’t break as easily.  I also use a horse product called Show Sheen, which works very well as a detangler.  I like to be very careful when brushing my horses’ tails, because I show them and I want their tails to look nice.  If you use a mane comb, you will have more damage from breakage.

Sweat Scrapers

When you bathe your horse, you will need a sweat scraper. Sweat scrapers remove excess water after a horse is bathed.  This is an important step.  If you don’t remove the water, it will heat up on the horse’s body and cause an insulation that will make them very hot.  Your horse might also develop a fungus called rain rot, if you don’t remove the excess water.

Finally, you should add a sponge to your grooming supplies. A damp sponge is essential for cleaning around the horse’s nostrils and eyes.

Many stores offer grooming kits that have everything you need all in one kit. I’ve seen some really cute grooming kits out there for kids.

No matter where you shop for supplies, though, don’t forget to throw in some horse treats. After all, if your horse isn’t happy, all of the equipment in the world won’t make the grooming session easy!  Here’s an inexpensive healthy horse treat.  Try Frosted Mini Wheats!

Blankets typically come in three different weights. A lightweight, known as a sheet, a medium weight for cold weather and a heavy weight for very cold weather.

Heavy and medium weight blankets are filled for warmth.  On the other hand, sheets are not filled.

Just like bed sheets have different thread counts, so do horse blankets.  This is called “denier” when referring to horse blankets.  A higher denier indicates a heaver fiber.  If you have a horse that frequently rips his blankets, a heavier denier is better.  Some blankets will have an extended warranty (I have seen up to two years), so you can get your blanket replaced, if it does rip.

Turnout blankets are used on horses while they are turned out in the pasture.  They provide protection from the cold and are water proof.  They also are designed so your horse is less likely to get tangled up in it.

A stable blanket should only be used while a horse is in a stall.  It does not protect against harsh weather and it is not waterproof.  Keep in mind that you can use a turnout blanket or sheet in a stall, so stable blankets are not a necessity.

The weight needed for your horse depends on your particular climate.  On extremely cold days, I have put multiple layers of blankets on my horses.  It also depends on whether your horse is clipped or not.  The blanket manufacturer will tell you what temperatures their blankets can be used for.

Typically, I will use a sheet for weather in the 50’s a medium blanket for 30-40 degrees and a heavy weight for weather in the 20’s or teens.  I might also opt for a sheet if the weather is in the 60’s and raining.  Each horse is different, so use common sense.  Older horses may get cold easier than younger ones.  I like to place my hand between the blanket and my horse to gauge weather she is warm or not.

Another type of sheet is known as a cooler. It is designed to put on a horse after heavy exercise to absorb sweat and keep the horse from getting a chill while it is cooling off.  An anti sweat sheet is similar to a cooler, except that it is more fitted and has straps to secure it to the horse.   A horse should not be turned out with  a cooler or anti sweat sheet.

Another type of sheet used in the summer is a fly sheet. Fly sheets can not only protect the horse from biting insects, but certain types can protect the horse’s coat from fading in the sun.  These are meant to be used while the horse is turned out.

So you are thinking about getting your first horse?  There are a lot of things to consider before buying a horse.  Some people think that you can just buy a horse and put it out in a pasture with grass and water.  This is far from true.  You will need to think about where you will keep the horse, how much time you have to dedicate to him, your ability and your finances.

Grazing Muzzle

While it is true that horses can live on grass alone without grain, they need the right amount of grass.  If they don’t get enough, they can lose weight and be too thin.  If they get too much, they may founder.  Founder occurs when a horse eats so much that they get fat and are unable to walk due to pain in their feet.  If you do not have enough grass in your field, you will need to feed your horse hay.  This is also a requirement in the winter when the grass dies.  If there is too much grass available, or if your horse has a tendency to gain weight easily, you will need to restrict the amount of grass the horse has available to eat.  One way this can be done is by using a grazing muzzle.  A grazing muzzle has a small hole in it, so the horse can only eat small amounts of grass.  If your horse has never used a grazing muzzle, they have to be introduced to it slowly; otherwise they may not know how to eat with it.

Another thing to consider is your ability.  If you are a beginner, it is best to get a horse that is experienced and knows its job and is not nervous or easily frightened (spooky).    Well trained horses are often called schoolmasters and horses that do not spook are called bomb proof.  Older horses tend to make better beginner horses than younger ones.    Good beginner horses may also be called family horses.  It is best to find a horse that is very forgiving, which means they don’t get upset, if a beginner makes a mistake.

Another thing to consider is how much you are willing to spend.  Prices for horses can range quite a bit.  Flashy show horses cost thousands of dollars, while less flashy horses do not cost nearly as much.  The horse’s amount of training is also a factor in price.  The more training a horse has, the higher the price.  A horse with very little training will be cheaper, but it will not be good for a beginner.

When you shop for a horse, it is best to take someone with you who is experienced with horses.  You should also arrange to have a pre-purchase veterinary exam done to ensure that the horse is healthy and sound.  Often times, there will be things that are found in these exams, but you need to ask yourself if the things found really matter to you.

As you can see, there are a lot of things to consider when buying your first horse.  I have just touched on a few.  Before getting a horse, take some time to do some research.  It will pay off in the long run.